Link to Blue Dartar Pull Pull installation pages:
Blue Dartar Pull Pull

    Subject: Re: [RCSE] Pull-Pull photos
       Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 14:40:44 -0800
       From: Tom Watson 
         To: James Osborn 
 References:  1 , 2 , 3 , 4


OK...
Pic 1 shows the threading route.
Pic 2 shows the loop pulled out
Pic 3 shows the finished, tightened result with the loop wrapped under the
screw head.

The mock-ups were done with a Volz micro servo for clarity, but obviously
with HS50-sized stuff it's a bit more delicate but the same physical process
applies.  When pulling the cables taut, you need to use sort of a tap-pull
on the loop to coax it through the four holes at once.  It's a feel thing
that once you do it a few times, you get the hang of it.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: "James Osborn" 
To: "Tom Watson" 
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Pull-Pull photos


> Got any pictures of this?

More Details Below

Pull Pull Picture #1

Pull Pull Picture #2

Pull Pull Picture #3

More Details:

   Subject: Re: [RCSE] Pull-Pull photos
      Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 23:09:03 -0800
      From: Tom Watson 
        To: James Osborn 
References: 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8

This is where the 'feel' part comes in.  While holding the
loop taut with the screwdriver, pull it forward and down
against the horn, alongside and under the partially loosened
screw.  With the sub-micro servo horns I've used (HS-50 and
the like) the screw isn't recessed into the horn, which makes
this much easier.

Now the tricky part - keeping the loop taut, wind the loop
clockwise around the screw one revolution and while doing
this, engage the opposite side of the loop under the screw as
you go.  This is why I use a round screwdriver...the cable
will slide around it as this move is executed.  What you now
have is one leg of the loop wrapped 360 degrees around the
screw and the other 180 degrees (more than enough to secure
it).  Spectra cable is flat, not round, so this helps in
getting more consistent clamping under the screw.

Still holding it taut, use your other hand to tighten the
screw.  Sometimes this will add additional tension to the
lines, sometimes it won't - again, it takes a few tries to get
the hang of it.  Don't overtighten.  What I've found is that
it usually pulls them a little tighter, so I tension them just
enough to remove any notable slack, then tighten which pulls
them just tight enough.  This whole process is easier if you
are part octopus, but if not, having a helper hold the plane
for you makes it a lot easier.

Given a choice, I'll take CF pushrods over pull-pulls any
time, but often the builder doesn't leave you any choice.
Pull-pulls are a PITA, but this method gave me the best
results.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: "James Osborn" 
To: "Tom Watson" 
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Pull-Pull photos


> Regarding the technique and your photos, the one thing that
> still isn't crystal clear is the last part where you wrap the
> loop around the servo screw and then tighten it.  Seems like
> whenever I've tried to tighten a screw onto a piece of string
> or wire, it doesn't want to clamp it evenly.  Is this in fact
> what you are doing?  I think that last photo could be made
> clearer somehow, maybe?